Getting up this morning felt different...the air was warm and moist, the landscape was green and lush, and I wasn't freezing cold. I must be in Nyalam (interestingly Nyalam means 'gateway to hell' in Tibetan), and no more climbing passes anymore! When our guide said today's ride is 'downhill', I was a bit suspicious since he always say 'yes, downhill' but rarely do we get just a downhill route. Today was different, our ride from Nyalam to Zhangmu is exactly that - downhill. The 30km route is possibly one of the best and most beautiful downhills in the world - Tibet should promote it as one of their great natural wonders (similar to the Kilauea Volcano bike ride in Big Island of Hawaii). From Nyalam, the road twists and turns along the Tibetan plateau into a deep gorge of evergreen trees, numerous waterfalls and raging rivers. What a contrast from Tingri to Nyalam to Zhangmu - going from dry, arid, stark landscape to wet, lush, and colorful landscape. The cascading waterfalls, many over 200 meters, were like veins feeding into a thundering river (photos can't do the justice).
The town of Zhangmu is your typical border town - lots of 'moneychangers', hotels and restaurants catering to tourists, cheesy bars and lots of stores full of nasty, touristy trinkets. Zhangmu is basically a one street town and it's ugly, there's no reason to stay here except to use it as a transit town between Tibet and Nepal crossing.
My hotel, The Sherpa Hotel, is nothing special other than it has a 'western-style' bathroom and a killer view of the gorge. Sadly, the advertised hot shower is anything but hot. Next stop - Nepal.
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