After an uneventful overnight train to Erlian (it's no Trans-Mongolian), I had to push and shove past the mob of Mongolians and Chinese to queue in front of the Chinese Arrivals building. I was a bit nervous about my entry to China since I was only given a dual entry visa and I had already entered China twice in the past 2 months. I had read in the Lonely Planet Mongolia guide (BTW, don't rely on Lonely Planet as the sole source of information!) that I could either get a new visa or a visa extension at the border. Well, that was completely and utterly wrong - the Chinese Immigration officials informed me they only process entry for foreigners with valid visas and they do not process visa applications or extensions, and I must go back to Ulaan Baatar to request a new visa. "I have to go back to Ulaan Baatar?" After a 15-hour train ride and 2+ hours of waiting (no, standing) outside the Immigration Office, I was told I've been documented as attempting to enter China with an "expired" visa and immediately be "deported" back to Mongolia. The officials allowed Erica to come back inside so I could let her know of the situation, thankfully they allowed her to ride with me and be dropped off at the bus station on the way to the border.
The border crossings were interesting experiences all by themselves, but not something I want to do again. I was driven to the Erlian Departures building in an official car with a senior officer (all the guards saluted us as we drove by), walked past the departure lines, and placed into a jeep going to Mongolia's border. The jeep driver literally stuffed me into his car with 8 other passengers! One woman sat with my duffle bag behind her, while I held onto my backpack - 5 of us squeezed into the back seat and 3 sat in the front passenger seat - for a 7km ride to Zamiin-Uud, Mongolia. Shit, I'm back in Mongolia again...and Zamiin-Uud is not a friendly town to be stuck and not speak a word of Mongolian. Luckily, I was able to find a customs agent who spoke some English to help me find a taxi to the train station. Again, I was stuffed into a jeep with 6 others without knowing where the driver was going or how much he was going to charge. I definitely experienced how the locals travel...and it's insane!
Trying to buy a rail ticket to UB was no easy feat - I waited over 2 hours in line and didn't leave the line for the fear of losing my spot or my bags (there were at least a dozen arguments between policemen and people trying to cut the line). I was hungry, thirsty and had to pee but all that needed to wait until I purchased my train ticket. I was told the ticket booths would open at 2pm, but true to Mongolian punctuality, they didn't open until after 3:30pm. Finally...success! Oh wait, the ticket's for August 16 1:40 - not this afternoon...back to the ticket window to find out how to get on today's train. I tried in vain that I had to be on today's train but I believe the agent was telling me that the 17:30 train was sold out. In absolute dismay and exhaustion, I left the train station in search of a place to sleep near the station. One hotel across the street wanted 35,000 Turgriks per night - I told them that was too expensive but they wouldn't drop the price. Back out the on street, as I was looking for a hotel in the LP book, I ran into the Israeli couple who was waiting to buy tickets to UB. They also had the same ticket as me and were heading to a hotel. I asked about the train schedule and they told me the train leaves at 1:40AM, not 1:40PM - frack, I would have missed the train had I not met them! What dumb luck - I'm not going to miss the train and they suggested I stay in their hotel and travel together. Yippee!!
I'm still pissed that I didn't research more on visa extension requests and just took the first available train to Beijing. This stupid lapse will cost me dearly...I guess I deserved it. The next 2 days will be complete shit and will need to adjust my travel plans to Vietnam or Cambodia. Hope Erica got to enjoy a nice night of luxe and comfort...especially after a month of sleeping on a form pad and not showering for days. I'll have to wait for at least another day or two.
The border crossings were interesting experiences all by themselves, but not something I want to do again. I was driven to the Erlian Departures building in an official car with a senior officer (all the guards saluted us as we drove by), walked past the departure lines, and placed into a jeep going to Mongolia's border. The jeep driver literally stuffed me into his car with 8 other passengers! One woman sat with my duffle bag behind her, while I held onto my backpack - 5 of us squeezed into the back seat and 3 sat in the front passenger seat - for a 7km ride to Zamiin-Uud, Mongolia. Shit, I'm back in Mongolia again...and Zamiin-Uud is not a friendly town to be stuck and not speak a word of Mongolian. Luckily, I was able to find a customs agent who spoke some English to help me find a taxi to the train station. Again, I was stuffed into a jeep with 6 others without knowing where the driver was going or how much he was going to charge. I definitely experienced how the locals travel...and it's insane!
Trying to buy a rail ticket to UB was no easy feat - I waited over 2 hours in line and didn't leave the line for the fear of losing my spot or my bags (there were at least a dozen arguments between policemen and people trying to cut the line). I was hungry, thirsty and had to pee but all that needed to wait until I purchased my train ticket. I was told the ticket booths would open at 2pm, but true to Mongolian punctuality, they didn't open until after 3:30pm. Finally...success! Oh wait, the ticket's for August 16 1:40 - not this afternoon...back to the ticket window to find out how to get on today's train. I tried in vain that I had to be on today's train but I believe the agent was telling me that the 17:30 train was sold out. In absolute dismay and exhaustion, I left the train station in search of a place to sleep near the station. One hotel across the street wanted 35,000 Turgriks per night - I told them that was too expensive but they wouldn't drop the price. Back out the on street, as I was looking for a hotel in the LP book, I ran into the Israeli couple who was waiting to buy tickets to UB. They also had the same ticket as me and were heading to a hotel. I asked about the train schedule and they told me the train leaves at 1:40AM, not 1:40PM - frack, I would have missed the train had I not met them! What dumb luck - I'm not going to miss the train and they suggested I stay in their hotel and travel together. Yippee!!
I'm still pissed that I didn't research more on visa extension requests and just took the first available train to Beijing. This stupid lapse will cost me dearly...I guess I deserved it. The next 2 days will be complete shit and will need to adjust my travel plans to Vietnam or Cambodia. Hope Erica got to enjoy a nice night of luxe and comfort...especially after a month of sleeping on a form pad and not showering for days. I'll have to wait for at least another day or two.
Location:Erlian, China
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